Ghana (Part Nine)
Dec 31, 2008
I woke up on December 8th at around 5 am or so, and couldn’t get back to sleep because of all of the noise outside. I knew that in a few hours we would be leaving for Cape Coast (to check out Cape Coast castle and the nearby Kakum National Park) but an hour or two more of sleep would have been nice, since I was still feeling pretty sick. I went to take a shower (since I puked before I went to bed the night before) but the water wouldn’t work. I’m not saying that the hot water wouldn’t work – trust me, I was used to cold showers at this point. The water wouldn’t turn on at all. I went down to the lobby and the guy told me it’d be working in an hour.
Two and a half hours later, the water still wasn’t working, and the “free breakfast” was nowhere to be found either. We checked out of the hotel around 9:30 and grabbed a taxi to Tema Station. and after wandering around there for awhile, we realized we couldn’t get a tro-tro from there to Cape Coast, so we grabbed another taxi to Kaneshi station. From there, we got on an “STC” bus.
As soon as I sat down, a huge fat lady took the seat next to me and smothered me. The bus ride (which I initially thought would be more comfortable than a tro) was one of the worst yet. No fire extinguishers blasted me in the eye this time, but the roads had so many sets of speed bumps (literally, at least one every 2-3 minutes) that the driver didn’t slow down for at all, it was like a joke. So that felt amazing considering the condition I was in.
At one of the stops, the fat lady next to me got off the bus and walked to the curb. She scooted over to pee right in front of everyone, and then got right back on the bus with a huge grin on her face. I had seen people pooping on the side of the road as well, so this sight wasn’t at all shocking to me, but it’s still worth mentioning.
When we finally arrived in Cape Coast (after about a 3 hour ride) we were swarmed by taxi drivers. We got one to take us to “Sammo’s Guest House” (for 1 cedi) which was where we planned on staying. On the way, he told me that he meant he wanted 1 cedi from each of us. I was at the end of my rope at this point and told him to stop and let us out, and I started to open the door while the tro was still moving. He knew I wasn’t going to take any of his crap, so he lowered the price and took us where we needed to go.
We checked into Sammo’s Guest House and the price was right – 9.50 (cedi) a night. The room had no tv/air/fridge, but we didn’t need that stuff anyway. The bed was a little small (and had no sheets on it), but the room had a shower with a shower head, so I was happy. In retrospect, I wish I would have taken more pictures near the end of the trip. I do remember what the room looked like, but I think because I was feeling sick, I wasn’t using the camera nearly as much.
We took showers and then took a short taxi ride to Cape Coast castle. I thought that the sign outside was rather humorous… “Museum, slave dungeons, gift shop”. The guided tour lasted for about half an hour, and it was pretty interesting. The conditions that the slaves who were kept in Cape Coast Castle (it was a major hub in the slave trade of the 1800s) endured were pretty awful… They were kept in dank basement rooms with no sunlight, they were pretty much just straight up caves. The architecture of the castle was interesting, and I thought that the numerous cannons facing the sea were pretty cool. The castle was right on the beach, so the view was nice. I almost feel like I’m doing something wrong by talking about the nice view of the sea from a place where so many people were treated so horribly (or killed) for so long.
When the tour was over, I was taking pictures from up on one of the towers. I was using the “stich assist” feature on my camera to try and get a panoramic shot of the marketplace below me – I had never used the feature before, so I was looking at the screen on my camera for a few minutes while pointing it towards the marketplace. The area I was shooting was very packed and bustling with activity, and I thought I heard someone yell “hey, white!” but I was used to hearing things like this anyway, so I thought nothing of it. Then I spotted someone waving his arms at me, I guess he was telling me not to take pictures of him… But I wasn’t. A few seconds later, he started throwing rocks at me. I was pretty high up, so he missed me on all 3 or 4 throws, but he was definitely whipping them hard and trying his best to nail me with them. I thought that was pretty ridiculous. We decided it was best to get away from there, so we checked out the gift shop (picked up a few souvenirs) and then left.
We stopped at an internet cafe on the way back to the hotel. I sent a happy birthday email to Sunny, and an email to my mom asking her to make a doctor’s appointment for when I got back – At this point I was convinced that I definitely had Malaria, and wasn’t properly diagnosed at the hospital I went to a few days earlier. We ate dinner on the roof of our hotel which was pretty cool… The view from up there was nice. I decided that it was probably in my best interest not to drink anything with dinner that night.
Got up early (as usual) the next morning, couldn’t sleep in because of some loud parade that was going up and down the street. I’m pretty sure it was part of a traditional Ghanaian funeral. We decided to go get some breakfast… Cortney went to the restaurant first to order and I took a quick shower. When I caught up with her, naturally there was some random guy sitting at the table with her. He introduced himself to me, and he seemed pretty strange. After his brief introduction, he started singing… Loudly. It was obnoxious. So Cortney and I are just sitting at the table with this guy, looking at each other as he continues to sing at a ridiculous volume (about God, naturally).
The tea that she ordered me showed up. I poured the hot water over the teabag, and a bunch of dead ants floated up to the surface – lots of them, out of nowhere – so I poured it off the side of the building. I didn’t hear any agonizing screams, so I’m assuming it didn’t hit anyone on the way down. I tried again with teabag #2, no ants this time. I think that if this had hapened when I first arrived in Ghana, I wouldn’t have even wanted tea anymore, or I would have asked for a new cup at the very least. But I was accustomed to this sort of thing by now, so it didn’t even phase me. I don’t necessarily mean that in a negative way either. When you spend a few weeks taking ice cold showers and squatting over holes to go to the bathroom, little things like bugs don’t seem to be much of a big deal.
The toast arrived and the butter was full of ants too. Oh well. We headed back to our room and packed up, and grabbed a taxi to “Hans Cottage Botel“, which was 8 km to Cape Coast, on the road to Kakum National Park. The place was actually pretty big, and it definitely had potential. Unfortunately, most of it was dilapidated and run-down looking. We got a self-contained “double” with a fan, tv, and shower for 45 cedi. After we checked in, we went to the restaurant, which was on top of a man-made lake that had crocodiles in it. Then we headed to Kakum National Park.
When we got there, we got tickets for the canopy walk, but decided not to do the optional hike because I still felt awful. In retrospect I definitely regret this decision, but considering the way I felt at the time it’s a miracle that I was up for anything requiring physical activity. Walking through the park to get to the canopy walk was cool, and I’m sure an extended hike would have been much cooler, but I just wasn’t up for it.
Anyway, the canopy walk (video here) was definitely as cool as I was hoping it would be. The bridges were pretty shakey, and if you’re afraid of heights, you’d probably hate it. It wasn’t just one bridge – It was a series of six (I think). It took about half an hour to cross, but that’s because we were all taking our time and snapping pictures the whole time (there was around 10 of us in the group).
Afterwards, the rest of the group headed into the jungle for the hike, and Cortney and I headed back into the park. We walked back down to the main road, where the tro-tro had dropped us. A taxi drove by, but he wanted to charge us 10 ghana cedi to get back to Hans Cottage, which was ridiculous (the tro-tro from Hans Cottage to the park was less than 1 ghana cedi). A little girl saw us waiting by the road so she brought us a bench to sit on. She tried to sell us palm wine, but it was way too hot for that, and the last time I tried that stuff it was gross – Apparently it’s only good when it’s fresh.
Soon after, some guy came over and started shouting at us, telling us that it would cost us no less than 10 ghana cedi to get to Hans Cottage, and that no tro-tros would come at this time… I don’t know if that was true or not, but it was like 2 in the afternoon. He told us he knew this because he was “a driver”. I’m assuming he meant that he was a taxi driver. He was pretty rude and extremely aggressive, and since we’d already been sitting there waiting for about half an hour, we decided to start walking – A tro-tro was bound to stop next to us eventually.
After about 30 seconds, the guy started running and caught up with this, and just then a truck drove by, which he flagged down. He told us to give him 4 ghana cedi. I have no idea how he knew that the truck driver would take us, as it was a commercial truck. He talked to the guy for about 30 seconds and then told us to get in. He gave the driver 3 cedi and kept one for himself, which was lame because the guy was rude/pushy, but I wasn’t about to complain, as I still felt pretty awful and was tired of waiting… And sitting up front in a big truck was much more comfortable than being stuffed into a hot, crowded tro-tro.
The driver asked us if we were going to Accra. We told him no, we were heading to Hans Cottage Botel, which was about 20 kilometers down the road. I asked him if he was driving to Accra, and he said yes. We needed to get to Accra the following day for our flight home anyway, and catching a ride with this guy would be so much easier than taking taxis and tro-tros back. I asked if we could catch a ride the whole way there with him if we paid him some more, and he agreed. He was really nice, and most likely would have said yes even if we didn’t offer more money, since he was driving there anyway. The only problem was that we had already checked into Hans Cottage… We told him we just needed to stop in really quick and pick up our things, and that it shouldn’t take more than five minutes.
When we got to Hans Cottage, we told the guy at the desk that we couldn’t stay the night because we wouldn’t be able to stick around until 12-1 in the afternoon the following day to pay via credit card – They had told us earlier that the credit processing machines wouldn’t be working until then. At first, the guy told me he wanted to charge us half for the room… We had literally been in the room for about 10 minutes. I told him that we weren’t paying half. He wasn’t too happy about this, and he went to get the manager. About 10 minutes (and some serious arguing) later, I convinced him to let us off by only paying for the bar of soap that we opened in the room.
The ride to Accra was so much more comfortable than the bus that we took to Cape Coast. The truck driver dropped us off alongside Kaneshie Market, and from there we got a taxi to Aqua J field. We decided not to go back to lake Bosumtwi Hotel again, and instead went to Kyn’s Hotel, which was right nextdoor. The showers in this place didn’t work, so we had to revert back to bucket showers again, but this was no big deal since we’d been doing it for the vast majority of the past month.
We headed to Sacred Tree for one last meal. I got some kind of tofu and eggplant wrap which was alright. It was nice to see the owners again to thank them for being so helpful last time I was there, when I got sick as hell in their restaurant. After dinner we decided to stop and grab a beer at a “nightclub”. The place was setup like a strip club inside, with leather couches everywhere and very dim lighting. We didn’t stay too long, since we were the only people there and they were playing country music, which was pretty odd… We called it a night after like 2 beers.
The next day we got breakfast from a street vendor and then took a taxi to the National Cultural Center in Accra, which is basically just a huge art market. Vendors set up stands and sell stuff, and there are probably over 100 stands there. It was still early when we got there, so none of the vendors were being overly aggressive yet. I met one particular vendor who introduced himself as “Colin Powell”. He asked me what state I was from. When I told him Pennsylvania, he rambled off a bunch of random facts about the state, where the capital is, the biggest cities, famous people from PA, etc. It was pretty impressive. When Cortney told him she was from New Jersey he did the same thing. Probably a pretty good way to get people visiting from the US to buy some of your stuff, but impressive nonetheless.
We took a taxi back to Kyn’s, and the taxi driver had a stutter. I’m not sure why, but that made me pretty sad. I grabbed a quick shower back at the hotel and we checked out right on time at noon. We stopped at a “fast food” place called Papaye. It was the only place I saw that was even remotely similar to a McDonalds, and it really didn’t interest me at all until my last day. All of the employees wore the same uniform, and the food was actually better than most of the fast food I’ve had in the US. The setup of the place was pretty nice too… Two floors, air conditioned, etc.
Since we had nowhere else to go and our flight wasn’t leaving until 2am, we decided to find a bar. We followed some signs to Ryan’s Irish Pub, which was actually really nice. It was around 1:30 when we got there. Happy hour started at 5, and we joked about staying there until then, but didn’t think we actually would. I had the world’s smallest margarita, a few beers, some tequila shots, and various other fruity drinks. This was one of the first places that actually accepted Mastercard, so I was more than happy to spend money since I had been borrowing from Cortney for the majority of the trip.
We decided to go back to the Sacred Tree restaurant one more time for dinner, and oddly enough, we ran into Sunny there. We weren’t expecting to see her again before we left, so that was cool. We had dinner with Sunny, said our goodbyes, and caught a taxi to the airport.
Nothing noteworthy really happened at the airport… They didn’t have x-ray machines there, so they searched every single person’s bags by hand. This took just as long as it sounds like it would take. If I remember correctly, we got searched again a few hours later. We finally got on the plane around 1:45, and it didn’t actually leave until around 2:15. They served goat meat for dinner. On the airplane. I was fine with that, but it was amusing to eat goat on an airplane. I was exhausted by that point though so I probably would have been amused by anything.
It’s been over a year now since I arrived back in the US, but I still remember it pretty well. It was freezing cold in New York, and I wasn’t dressed for the weather at all. Cortney’s dad picked us up and drove us back to NJ. He had a lot of questions for us, but we both slept in the car. When my Mom picked me up from Cortney’s a few hours later, she had a lot of questions as well, but all I wanted to do was take a shower and sleep for a week. Don’t get me wrong, I love talking about my trip, but overall it was pretty tiring, and sleeping in a comfortable bed for a good 24 hours was much higher on my priority list then having a press conference about my trip with my family.
It’s not too often that a day will go by that I don’t think about my trip. I think about the kids in the orphanage, our many trips to Hohoe, the family we stayed with in Togo, the other volunteers/people we met along the way, the basic communication skills that I picked up on (spanning several languages), the foods I tried, the music I was exposed to, and pretty much every major aspect of the trip and the culture that I was lucky/privileged enough to experience and become familiar with. Looking back, I’m glad I lost my job and got dumped right around the same time, otherwise I probably wouldn’t have pushed myself and gone on this trip at all. It ignited a passion for traveling and seeing the world that is definitely still going strong. I don’t want to travel to some spring break destination, Amsterdam or Hawaii, I want to go places where I can be immersed in completely new cultures, and also be in a position to give something back. I’m kind of rambling right now since it’s late, but I hope it’s safe to say that Ghana was just the beginning of my travels, and that plenty more lie in my future.